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Mt. Makalu Expedition(8,643 M)

 

Mt Makalu (8643m) is the world’s 5th highest mountain and consider as one of the challenging and potentially dangerous mountain to climb. It is rare in beauty and located 14 miles east of Mt. Everest. It’s structure is like a perfect pyramid with four sharp ridges. It is the only mountain which has not been climbed in true winter. Hardly about 200 mountaineers have stood on her summt. In 1955 it was climbed by a French team; by 1996, 160 climbers stood the summit on 125 expedition, 15 climbers have died in the attempt. The peak was first mapped and photographed from the Tibetan side by the 1921 Brirish Everest reconnaissance. On the 1951, Everest Reconnaissance Hilary and Shipton photographed Makalu during a side trip. After the failure of their Mount Cho Oyu expedition Hilary and other approached the peak a year later. In 1954, the first attempt on mount Makalu was succeeded by a team; they were mostly from California, who had trekked all the way from the Nepal India border near Biratnagar.

 

Fitness:

To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales.

Experience:

Previous mountaineering experience is required to at least 6000m. You will also need to be very determined. Makalu is a non-technical peak with the possibility of a ski descent for VERY strong skiers. Ski touring in the area near ABC is also possible (and a fun way to acclimatise).To succeed you will need to be extremely fit and have a high level of endurance. You don't need to be fast but you need to be steady and strong. Mental toughness plays a large role as does the ability to relax and let your body acclimatise.

Autumn season (Sept-Nov)being the best season for climbing peaks, offers excellent weather and tantalizing mountain views, and also best season for peak climbing.Recommended season for Manaslu Expedition.

Summer months (June-September) of the year which coincides with monsoon begins in mid-June and drains in mid-September making travel wet and warm. The mountain views may not be at their best as rain clouds and haze over hang the mountains occasionally obscuring the enchanting views. These times are blessed for the keen botanist as the higher valleys and meadows blossom with flowers and lush vegetation.

Spring season (March-May) is the expedition season and the best time for climbing the high peaks. It is mildly warm at lower elevations but occasional haze mars beautiful view of mountains. At higher elevations over 4,000 meters the mountain views are excellent and the temperature is quite moderate even at night. Recommended season for Manaslu Expedition.Winter season (December-February) is noted for cold weather with occasional snowfall at higher elevations. Again, excellent views are common. These months are popular and ideal for trekking for those who are well equipped or who remain at lower elevations below 3,000 meters. Most of the hotel owners will come to the lower altitude cities like Kathmandu and Pokhara.

Elevation: 8,463m (26,747ft)

Location: Makalu/Baruntse

Coordinates: 27°53′0″ N 87°05′00″ E

First Ascent: J. Franco's French Expedition, the climbers Jean Couzy and Lionel Terray, 1955

Climbing Season:Late spring (traditionally less hazardous) and autumn

Expd duration:47 days (typically)

Climbing duration:32 days (typically)

Group Size: 02-15 person per Group

 

 Day 1 :We fly to Tumlingtar from Kathmandu

and land on the long plateau. Our trek begins as we head up the trail to the town of Khaadbari at 3,500 ft.

Day 2 : We trek along the ridge through the town of Manebhanjyang (3700 ft.) to Chichila.

Day 3 : From Chichila we continue through a glorious mixed broadleaf verdant hobbit forest. We pass through the village of Mude at 6,500 ft. We head north along the West side of the ridge. The trail consists of red mud (rato mato). We then reach our destination for the day  Num, at 4,920 ft.

Day 4 : We descend through incredibly lush jungle on the east side of the valley and cross the Arun Khola at 2,260 ft. We then climb up to Sedua at 5,000 ft.
 

Day 5 : From Sedua we ascend a ridge with valleys on both sides, Ipsuwa Khola to the west and Kasuwa Khola to the east. We enter Sherpa country and begin to notice Sherpa homes clustered on the hillsides. We then gradually ascend to 6,860 ft. and the village of Tashigaon, also known as "Luck Village."

Day 6 : Today we head north, crossing many streams as we travel through a dense cloud forest. Overhead, the trees are adorned with orchids. At 10,140 ft., we reach a notch and officially enter the Makalu-Barun national Park. We leave the forested ridge crest and descend into more open country on the west side of the ridge. Our campsite for the evening is at Kongma Danda.

Day 7 : From Kongma, we continue along the ridge and past Gongrua La. The views on this day are spectacular: the trail is streamed with prayer flags and views of Makalu, Chamlang, Baruntse, Kangchenjunga and Jannu tower overhead. We reach Sano Pokhari (12,720 ft.), which means "Little Lake," where the reflection of the nearby peaks are stunning. We then begin climbing the first of two passes, Tutu La at 13,875 ft. and then descend slightly to Thulo Pokhari, the magical lake. The trail climbs again to the Kekela at 13,725 ft. where there are spectacular views of Tibet. We then descend through Fir, Rhododendron and Birch forest to Mambuk and place our camp at approximately 11,000 ft.

Day 8 : Today we descend slightly and heap up the valley in the Barun canyon where one can see glimpses of the "Great Black One," Makalu. We pass panting and tare through open meadows among forests of silver fir and birch to our camping ground at Yang Kharkov, 11,800 ft. The views of the nearby ice covered peaks are impressive.

Day 9 : The path contours around the Barun canyon along a serene pasture. There is a remote cave up high in the rocks where Guru Rimpoche stayed. During the fall moon of August in the monsoon, there is a festival held here in which people will go up to the cave, where it is said that if you are infertile or barren and do a puja, you will bear children. There are the sheer cliffs to the south and the one on the right is the mother and the one on the left, the father. We then cross the Barun Khola to a quiet, peaceful valley. There are many waterfalls which cascade off the canyon walls (if not frozen). We reach the point called Ripu Maidaan at 13,040 ft. and cross many tributaries to Tadosa, meaning "horse tie," where Shiva tied his steed. We continue to Jark Kharka with its roofed hut, near the upper limit of the forest at Jark Kharka, 13,850 ft. We continue over a ridge for a view of the Barun Glacier and then to a string of stone enclosures and a designated campsite at Merek, at 15,000 ft.

Day 10 : We continue on to Shershong at 15,450 ft. We trek back north, up the valley and beneath the south face of Makalu into the "throne of the gods." We arrive at base camp at 15,825 ft.

Days 11-46 : Arrive at Base camp, elevation 15,825 ft., and establish camp. We have 36 days to establish four camps, properly acclimatize and summit Makalu. This leaves plenty of time to make several summit attempts. Camp I is located up the Chago glacier at 6150m. Camp II will be placed at the foot of the west face at 7000m. We climb the west face to gain the northwest ridge at Makalu La and the site of camp III at 7500m. Camp IV will be placed on our summit push at 7850m. Summit day we climb the remaining 613m up the couloir to gain the final ridge at the summit.

Day 47 : Fly out via helicopter from basecamp to Kathmandu or trek back same way to Tumlingtar & fly out for Kathmandu.

 

Cost Detail: On Request

 SERVICE INCLUDES

  • Mt. Makalu climbing permit
  • 5 (five) nights hotel in Kathmandu on BB basis.
  • Drive in & out to the road head. 
  • Necessary number of porters/yak to carry load
  • Liaison officer charge 
  • One head Sardar
  • Cooks and Kitchen boys.
  • Private tent at Base camp with mattress 
  • sleeping bag & Down jacket for BC purpose 
  • Dinning tent at BC 
  • All necessary kitchen gears
  • High quality high Altitude tents for high camps 
  • Toilet & shower tent at base camp 
  • All necessary climbing hardware gears except personal climbing gears 
  • All meals at Base camp & high camps 
  • Experiences Climbing Sherpa (1:2) or 1 Sherpa between 2 climbing members 
  • Quality high altitude freeze dried food & individual packet food 
  • EPI gas with burner for high camps 
  • Walkie-talkie set with radio base 
  • Satellite phone in payable basis (per minute $ 4)
  • Solar panel/generator with accessories at base camp for power supply and rechargingpurpose 
  • Gammov/PAC bag at base camp 
  • Oxygen with mask set for medical purpose 
  • Daily wages, equipment bonus of staff + LO
  • Insurance of local team members + LO 
  • All airport transport
  • Celebration meal in Kathmandu
  • Half day sightseeing in Kathmandu

SERVICE EXLUDES:

  • Insurance of member 
  • Visa & visa extension fees 
  • Personal climbing equipment 
  • Cost of emergency evacuation 
  • Main meals in KTM and personal natures expenses
  • Summit bonus of Climbing Sherpa 

FEW MAJOR POINTS:

  • The total duration of expedition is 47 days, no refund is made for any unused service 
  • Summit bonus is minimum US $ 500 
  • All the emergency evacuation on the mountain will be by Sherpas and group assistance, thehelicopter service is available from Base camp only. 
  • The group should trek in and out at same date/if otherwise arranged.

Map

 

Frequently asked question:

Q) Can I really climb a mountain? Do I need to have climbing experience? How can I climb Mount Everest? Can I climb the seven summits?

A) The level of experience and skills required depends on your particular goal (search for your adventure here). We suggest that people undertaking a first climb should have had at least overnight trekking experience. For those who wish to take on a technically difficult, remote or extreme altitude mountain we'd expect participants to have appropriate experience and skills. Some ideas for preparing for climbing goals are given at the bottom of this page.

Q) Why go on a guided expedition?

A) There are many reasons that might make a guided expedition attractive even for experienced climbers. These include someone else taking care of all those details (including thing as diverse as booking and confirming hotels, checking the number of evening snacks, ensuring reliable support, transport, permits, visas, team members, gear, etc etc etc etc). This saves your time and energy for the part that really matters - working on achieving your goal. The high levels of support and experience aim to give you the best possible opportunity to succeed, a high level of risk management, and the Arun leaders and staff are there for YOU!

Q) What type of people comes along?

A) Climbing expeditions usually attract people in their twenties to fifties. Participants tend to be seeking a good quality, safe, well supported, good value and enjoyable adventure rather than the lowest cost.

Q) How fit do I need to be? Will I have to carry a lot of weight? Should I be able to do 100 chin ups?

A) The fitter you are, the more fun you (and your companions) will have. You will find guidance on preparing for your expedition on each adventure's web page (search here), our info packs and trip dossiers. A minimum level of fitness would have you being able to walk all day on uneven, hilly ground, carrying your day pack, and be able to get up again the next day. Many climbs will require a higher level of fitness and strength so you can carry heavy gear to high camps and really exert yourself on summit day.

Q) What gear is provided?

A) Included are individual sleeping tents for the trekking phase of most climbing expeditions, with dining and kitchen tents. On the mountain participants share serious, proven mountain tents. Climbing teams are equipped with emergency communications and first aid equipment as well as more prosaic things like climbing and cooking gear. There is a detailed gear list for each adventure which outlines what we provide as well as what you should bring. (Search here for specific adventures and download the info pack.)

Q) What's the food like?

A) Food arrangements are specific to each adventure, but you get three meals a day while on the track. In cities included is breakfast and, depending on the trip and the nature of the activities may also cater for lunch and dinner for the group. In the Himalayas the kitchen staffs have been training for years and work magic over gas or kero stoves in their kitchen tent.While trekking the cooks prepare a varied menu of wholesome, tasty and plentiful food using fresh ingredients where possible. A trekking breakfast in the Himalayas usually includes cooked foods e.g. eggs, tomatoes, cereal or porridge, toast & spreads and fruit and a selection of hot drinks.Lunch is often soup and a packed lunch, or a cooked lunch. Dinners are generally soup, a main meal (one of many Asian or European style dishes) veges, and a dessert (fruit to custard to baked apple pie!) Drinking water: will be provided at camps (collected with care, filtered, treated with chemicals and/or boiled), and at lunch time where possible. It is wise to carry a small amount of purifying chemicals (e.g. Iodine or chlorine) with you, in case you happen to need water at an odd time. In the developing world care should be taken to avoid untreated water and potentially contaminated foods like uncooked salads and some fruit. Bottled water is available in cities, but of course you can treat tap water in your own bottle too.On the hill we eat easy to prepare food, often prepared by the team with assistance from guides and staff: freeze-dried foods, crackers, soups, snacks etc. On big mountains it is often a challenge to eat, so we provide foods to tempt your appetite and give you sustenance.

Q) Who will be responsible for my safety?

A) The short answer - you! All participants are expected to behave in a responsible manner, taking due care of themselves and others. Your expedition leader is responsible for the group including participants and staff. He or she will advise, manage and assist everyone, sometimes with the support of an expedition first aider or doctor, and will be assisted by guides, sherpas, and you and your climbing colleagues, all of whom will have roles to play.

Q) What if I get sick or have an accident?

A) Despite the best precautions, people do sometimes fall ill, sprain something or develop symptoms of AMS. Our expedition leaders will manage your care keeping in mind what's best for you and the rest of the group. Precautions include first aid qualifications and kits, emergency communications, evacuation plans, your travel insurance cover and our pre-preparation and medical advisors.